Boozing
Brussels-Style
Alternative Nights Out
Get Up, Stand Up
Brussels Rhythm and Blues Club
Some say the charm of Brussels is
best sampled in conjunction with a half-empty beer glass. Here at
UP Front
we are not inclined to disagree. Belgium is home to some of the finest beers on
the planet and the majority of bars in the country's capital serve them with
grace, style and a deserved reverence.
Then again, there are haughty
waiters and waitresses in abundance, but that's part of the fun - plus
impossibly skinny Belgian stick-insects blowing air kisses at each other in the
trendier joints. And if you fancy an Irish experience, well, you won't be short
of one in this town. Pseudo Irish pubs are as ubiquitous as the city's legendary
dog muck, but much better for you! Here's a quick (alphabetical) run-down of
some of the best bars to tumble in and out of, both ex-pat and more traditional.
UP Front Featured Bar
De Valera's Irish Bar
Just when you thought it was safe to go for a stroll around the city without necessarily tripping over an Irish pub, another one opened in March 2007.
Named after a former prime minister and president of Ireland, de Valera's is different, however. Located on Place Flagey, with a view of the lakes, the interior is arresting to say the least, think 'gothic church with Guinness pumps' - a nifty combination.
The gothic feel is due in part to de Valera's belief that the church was crucial to the political future of the newly independent Ireland and the owners scoured West Clare for genuine church artefacts - such as an antique pulpit (doubling as a really hip DJ stand), beautiful Ireland-quarried flagstones throughout, Celtic crosses, gothic railings and a massive stained glass window.
Other features include the now-obligatory LCD screens (there are five, plus the 'big screen') and the 'Jameson Snug', ideal for chilling out.
The 'Taste of Ireland' menu runs all seven days and features the likes of bacon and cabbage, lamb stew and beef in Guinness. Good, honest grub from one of the biggest bar kitchens we've ever seen.
De Valera's is open Sun-Wed from 8am-2am and Thurs-Sat from 8am-3am. There's live music Friday and Saturday nights.
17 Place Flagey, 1050 Brussels. Tel 02 649 80 54.
www.flagey.eu
UP Front Regular Bars
L'Amour Fou
The Fou is an extremely hip
bar/resto where canoodling customers can retreat to comfy sofas at the back for
candle-lit snuggles away from prying eyes. Hugely romantic at night and trendily
busy by day. Eye-catching art on the walls and multi-lingual newspapers make it
easy to pass a stimulating couple of hours, even if you're alone. Look out for
the chandelier made from wine glasses. The L'Amour Fou is opposite the Maison
Communale in Ixelles and is staffed by typically aloof, French-speaking
waitresses. But the food they serve comes particularly recommended. Just beware
of one of the UP Front team who is often to be found breakfasting there
in his underpants...
185 Chaussée d'Ixelles, tel 02/514.27.09.
L'Archiduc
Marvellously different Art Deco hostelry close to the Bourse.
This legendary bar is popular with the jazz set, old bruxellois and serious cocktail drinkers. Opens from
early evening - and you can sit there happily until the small hours. The two-floor interior is easy on the eyes -
you could be watching the launch of the Titanic! - and the music is great.
6 Rue Antoine Dansaert, tel 02/512.06.52.
L'Atelier
200 beers, hundreds of students and
lots of noise, l'Atelier is not the place for a quiet chat. It's close to the
university so expect well-educated yet intoxicated youngsters blathering on
about anything from football to quantum physics. You may not find life's answers
in the bottom of a beer glass, but drink enough Belgian beer and you'll at least
forget the question...
77 Rue Elise, Ixelles, tel 02/649.19.52.
The Bank
The Bank used to be precisely what it says it is, and the old safety deposit boxes from its previous incarnation still line the walls.
Another Irish pub, that attracts all nationalities, it has carved out a deserved and envied reputation for its live music nights. Prime movers behind this are owner Sharon and her musical sidekick Robbie (the latter has been involved in music since the gramophone was invented). The acoustics are pretty good too - which is just as well as the bar is used to showcase bands on a regular basis.
A bit off the beaten track, perhaps, but worth the effort as it's close to the lovely Place Chatelain. Also customers can nip up and down the street between The Bank and the recently opened Michael Collins or totter to a late night bar across the street.
79 Rue de Bailli, tel 02/534.86.57.
Le Bier Circus
It's all change at the once delightfully seedy Le Bier Circus, up till now one of Brussels' best-kept secrets. Owner Patrick Dhane has recently closed the old bar and opened new premises just around the corner from the former haunt. The style couldn't be more different - there's more space to sup your ale of choice (around 300) and a reasonably priced menu offering traditional Belgian fare in a roomy new dining area. Better still, it's open at the weekend now.
89 Rue de l'Enseignement, tel 02/218.00.34.
Open noon to 14.30 and 18.00 to midnight Monday to Friday, 18.00 to midnight weekends.
Le Booze 'n' Blues
This slightly seedy bar boasts
probably the best juke box in Brussels. Sit sipping locally brewed gueuze while
listening to Otis Redding's Dock of the Bay belting out from the ancient
Rock-Ola in the corner. The place is certainly a bit scruffy - and there's a
distinct lack of English-speaking staff - but, when the occasional live blues is
playing, it rocks big-time. Atmospheric, to say the least...and very close to
the trendy Place Saint-Géry.
20 Rue des Riches Claires, tel 02/513.93.33.
Les Brasseurs de La Grand'Place
Located in a historical location, this is a genuine, original café-brewery, serving three self-brewed beers; a white beer, an ale and a Grand'Place special. There are several glass-sizes available - 0.25cl, 0.50cl, plus a 1.3 litre pitcher and, if you're feeling really adventurous, a 2.5 litre beer 'column'! Both beer and decor are magnificent, with drinking rooms scattered alongside the brewing machines, which are three stories high. Lots of shiny brass, plus some great traditional Belgian snacks. Prices are pretty good too - a rare treat in this tourist-trap corner of Brussels. Contact friendly owner Jean Christophe on jcstref@hotmail.com.
24 Rue De La Colline, tel 02/513.77.41
Celtica
For punchy live music try a visit to
this steamy bar which boasts excellent blues/rock music each Sunday night, and
really kicks butt. Mainly catering for students and the younger end of the
market, it's ideal for meeting people - such as staff from other bars who've
just come off shift - in the early hours of the morning. It's a bit like
Conway's (below) in that it's a renowned 'pulling' place - so don't be surprised
if you wind up sharing breakfast with a complete stranger. You have been warned.
But the place rocks. Just be careful on leaving, though, as it can be a bit
rough in that area early in the morning.
55 Rue de Marché aux Poulets, tel 02/514.22.69.
Chez Maman
Seriously famous and seriously gay. Well, mostly. Watch transvestite 'Maman' strutting
'her' stuff behind the bar of this tiny venue - a fire trap in other words, as
it can get outrageously busy, hot and sweaty. Maman's revels in 70s drag
atmosphere at the weekends, but is very different during the week when it is
(allegedly) possible to have a quiet drink. One of many gay bars in Brussels.
7 Rue des Grandes Carmes, tel 02/502.86.96.
Churchills
Are you English and missing some of the tastes of home? Fancy a change from Belgian or Irish bars? Well, now southerners and northerners alike have somewhere different to visit.
Following in the footsteps of certain politically named pubs in these parts, the new bar is called Churchill's, after the great wartime leader Winston Spencer Churchill. His memory has caused a brand new bar to rise like a cigar-puffing phoenix from the former Lop Lop/Doghouse on rue de l'Ecuyer, close to the Monnaie opera house.
Bottles of Wells Bombardier and Shepherd Neame Spitfire are available alongside draught Newcastle Brown and non-ale drinkers will be pleased to note that you can also find Lindeman's Kreik on tap, plus plenty of whiskies, Guinness and the usual cider, lager and so on.
The whole pub has been ripped apart, brightened up and made to feel much roomier. A new bar has also been fitted, the upstairs expanded and memorabilia added. The tables and chairs are discreet and tasteful too and it's all guaranteed to remind any Englishman of his castle...
Food is available already and, from September - when the holiday period is over - the bar will open at 8am every morning for those on the way to work who fancy a coffee in relaxed surroundings. Until then, Churchill's will open from 5pm until late.
29 rue de l'Ecuyer, tel: 02/503.45.00
www.churchills.be
Fabian O' Farrell's
Busy bar located close to the
European Parliament and now in its sixth successful year. Like all bars on this
developing square, it has outside seating and serves excellent food (including a
popular daily special that wouldn't be out of place in a good restaurant). O'
Farrell's also offers one of the best pints of Guinness in the city, served by a
mixture of Belgian, Irish and British staff - all of whom are friendly and speak
English (yes, even the Irish!). Crammed with chunky wooden tables, memorabilia
and usually packed early on Thursday and Friday evenings, this is altogether a
great spot for liquid lunches or after-office revels. Happy hour runs Monday to
Thursday from 5-7pm (two for the price of one). Just watch out for Men in Suits,
opinionated politicians and nosy journalists! Incidentally, it's supposed to be
an Irish bar but, apart from the name, you wouldn't really notice.
7 Place du Luxembourg, tel 02/230.18.87.
Fat Boys
Launched in early 2000, Fat Boy's
quickly emerged as probably the biggest player when it comes to the combination
of sport, music and food - in fact Euro 2004 and the Red Sox-dominated baseball
series arguably proved it. Decorated with sporting memorabilia and boasting no
less than ten screens (including a permanent giant one and an extra large
screen for outdoors), it's a great place to watch the action - especially as
several games of varying sports can be shown at once. The long wooden bar was
salvaged from a brothel, so that's seen plenty of action too. The staff all
speak English, the terrace is lively in summer and the American-style burgers
are among the best around. There's even live music on occasional Friday nights,
plus regular barbecues - and a dart board too. If you happen to be in Brussels
for the Super Bowl final, this is the place to go - but book early. It appears
that some women tend to find Fat Boy's a bit too male dominated, due to the
prevalence of sport - but come on girls, think of all that testosterone!
5 Place du Luxembourg, tel 02/511.32.66.
Another quiet night at Fat Boy's...
Le Fourquet
This is definitely one for the night
owls. Le Fourquet's interior has definitely seen better days but, in its heyday,
the bar must have been all the rage. Sit in the big windows and watch life go by
while downing a drink or three. The crowd is mixed - and the hours are very,
very late (or very, very early, depending on your staying power).
13 Place Flagey, Ixelles, tel 02/649.58.47.
Grand Prix
One of the latest bars to open in Brussels is certainly one of the most intriguing: Grand Prix is delightfully different, to say the least.
Located in the Autoworld museum in Parc Cinquantenaire, with a huge summer terrace (from June) that offers great views of the park and the famous arch, this roomy new bar is ideal for a party, a concert or just relaxing with friends.
In the warmer months it will be a haven for the many tourists who descend upon the park for its array of museums, there is also much to enjoy for locals.
The Grand Prix week begins with the already popular 'Breaking Silence' singer/songwriter nights. Meanwhile, on Friday and Saturday nights, there are in-house DJs.And, as the name suggests, Grand Prix is something of a sports bar too - it has excellent quality flat-screen televisions.
Espace 53, Autoworld, 1000 Brussels , tel 02/733.22.87.
www.grandprix-brussels.be
L'Horloge du Sud
It can be difficult to tell which
part of the world you are in on entering this bar: the décor is a Belgo-African
and so are the customers. Live music brings in the younger ones, who are more
often than not stagiaires at the EU institutions, but there's a very
cosmopolitan feel all round. Musical instruments and pictures of African warrior
heroes add to the 'where on earth am I?' feeling. A final note: beware the huge
mirror, unless you look like Johnny Depp or Julia Roberts.
141 Rue du Trone, tel 02/512.18.64.
The Kafka
The Kafka is a bit of a divey 'brown' bar, but very reasonably priced. You'll find here journalist meeting cop (by accident, usually), lawyer meeting social worker and frequently a socialist or five lurking about. Basically, this is the crowd that reads things we all would like to say we did.
It has a low-key speak-under- your-breath atmosphere. The music is whatever the bartender feels like playing. And there's one I wouldn't argue with, but he's always friendly. The house specialty is 15 or more types of vodka. Did you expect any less? Be ready for a quirky, jobless, arty type to walk off the street and entertain you. Go here when you feel a need to hide out or pretend you're a spy.
Open 16:00-2:00 every day.
6 Zwaarte Lievevrouwstraat/ Rue de la Vierge Noire
tel: 02 513.54.89
www.kafka.be
The Monk
The Monk is as brown as a brown bar can be. It is large and woody as one might expect, but the crowd will throw you. Yes, that is a group of very tidy elderly ladies who just walked in with shopping bags to the sound of Franz Ferdinand.
For the rest, it is the Flemish local population and hipsters from artistic directors to underground band members. It can get a bit gnarly on the weekend and an occasional brawl between a bearded biker artist and the local alcho is possible around 2am, but the staff have it all under control.
There's a wide selection of chalk-boarded beers, stronger spirits and quality gueuze and kriek on tap. Come down with your friends and don't think even your mum will feel out of place. The person at the next table will strike up a conversation with her.
Open 11:00 (Sunday 16:00) - 2:00 (Friday and Saturday 4:00)
42 St. Katelijnestraat/ Rue St. Catherine
tel: 02 503.08.80
www.monk.be
MacSweeney's
As you'll discover, Irish bars
abound in Belgium's capital and this one is run along much the same lines as the
rest. It has the advantage, though, of being handy for shopping, being close to
swanky Avenue Louise and all those trendy shops - think Louis Vuitton rather than
Gap. Noted for a decent pint of Guinness and friendly staff, Mac's has a
convenient terrace that's ideal for summer days. Soccer fans will find the big
screen handy for the new footie season and beyond.
24 Rue Jean Stas, St Gilles, tel 02/534.47.41.
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Make mine a 'Matonge'
Deep in the heart of the commune of Ixelles, a stone's
throw from L'Ultime Atome and the restaurants of Rue St Boniface, is a bustling
ethnic quarter. Nicknamed Matonge, after a part of the Congolese city of
Kinshasa, this bit of Brussels is a must-visit (although it can get a bit dodgy
late at night).
Specifically, the pedestrian section of the street Rue
Longue Vie features bar after bar and, while none of them stand out
individually, the cumulative effect of lots of outdoor tables, brightly coloured
national costumes, music and general chit-chat in a multitude of languages and
dialects makes for a cracking evening out. Especially on those (rare) hot
summer's nights. Not to be missed.
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Mini Louise
This 20-year-old place suits its
name, being a tiny bar located on the thriving, cosmopolitan Rue Jourdan, a
stone's throw from Place Louise. Jourdan boasts plenty of restaurants and, on
warm evenings, the whole of the street becomes one long terrace swarming with
revellers. Owner Kelly features a live band once per month and the bar rarely
closes before 2am. Pop in around 10 am and you'll probably find the bar peopled
with soon-to-be divorced men downing some courage on their way to untying the
marital knot at the nearby Palais de Justice.
3 Rue Jourdan, tel 02/539.37.23.
The Old Hack
Wonderful little bar opposite the monumental Berlaymont that
is always busy at lunch-times due to the splendid food on offer. The Hack has been around since the dawn of
time, but has been revamped by a Dutch couple (he cooks, she's front-of-house). Book your table well in
advance if you want a tasty and keenly priced lunch. The bar is often lively in the evening too, but is
closed weekends when most of the Schuman area simply shuts down. It's also closed throughout August for
precisely the same reason. Pity - it's an UP Front fave.
176 Rue Joseph II, tel 02/230.81.18.
O'Reilly's
O'Reilly's
In this archetypal Irish bar the all-day brekkie will set you back around €10 for the full monty. This includes bacon, fried eggs, sausage, baked beans, fries and grilled tomato, all served with toast. It's not for the faint hearted.
And those of you of a vegetarian disposition can tuck into fried eggs, mushrooms, grilled tomato, baked beans, fries and toast.
We're not so sure about fries for breakfast but, hey, each to their own.
If you can't manage all that, then spend less on a breakfast roll of bacon, egg and sausage in ciabatta bread. Then hit the Guinness...
1 Place Bourse, tel 02/552.04.80.
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And Gery good it is, too!
Just a hop-skip and a jump from O'Reilly's and the Bourse, and a mere two minutes from the traffic hell that is Boulevard Anspach, you'll find the oh-so-trendy Place Saint-Gery.
Awash with bars such as Mappa Mundo, Roi des Belges, Zebra and The Bison, it's a marvellous place to sit and read the papers, people-watch or generally sup until you need a taxi home.
And that's just during the day. At night, the whole area is buzzing, with Mappa a particularly popular spot (thank God it has several floors) and, to cap it all, there's loads of restaurants nearby (Chinatown is just around the corner, for example).
And just so you know, Place Saint-Gery is also handy for Brussels' gay area, if that's what floats your boat.
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Ralph's Bar
One of the more recent additions to Place du Luxembourg, this
bar is astonishingly popular with the young and beautiful. Chic and trendy, and offering good-quality wine
served in generous glasses, Ralph's rocks - especially during its regular happy hours. Food also served
during the day.
13 Place du Luxembourg, tel 02/230.16.13.
The Roskam
The Roskam is my "stamcafé" (haunt). Distinctly art-deco-sage-green-dimly-lit atmosphere and very Brussels. No sterile over-lit Belgian bar here. The music ranges from quirky jazz to just plain quirky anything.
The staff are efficient and friendly and I just can't remember a time I've been so comfortable on a wooden bench. Very local Flemish - although the Walloons are not afraid to tread here. I have seen famous arty types pop in as well as my hairdresser from down the road. It's what St. Gery used to be, although those people are slowly creeping in.
Get down there while it is still this cool to be uncool. Good selection of beer and occasional live music.
Open 16:00 to late (beware, sometimes the bartender doesn't stumble in until 17:00, but you can pop across the square to The Monk for the first drink).
9 Vlaamsesteenweg/ Rue de Flandre
tel: 02 503.51.54
Le Stoemelings
A warm and traditional bar this one,
much loved by locals and just far enough away from the EU institutions to still
be a fairly well-kept secret. Good variety of beers, snacks too - but smokers
beware: there's no ciggie machine, so buy some first! The 'Stumblings' is very
Belgian and the prices reflect that - it's much less expensive to drink here
than it is in the ex-pat bars. Lots of atmosphere and character, so well worth
seeking out.
7 Place de Londres, Ixelles, tel 02/512.43.74.
Tierra del Fuego
This bar is one of the city's
best-kept secrets, although it's easily accessible from Avenue Louise. Located
just off Chaussée de Charleroi, this latino-american bar and restaurant boasts a
truly southern atmosphere and one of the best beer gardens in the city. Cross
the little footbridge to the high-walled courtyard at the back to sip a Cuba
Libre surrounded by exquisite tiling, greenery and a heady, intimate atmosphere.
Give it a try, especially in summer, but keep it quiet, OK?
4 Rue Berckmans, tel 02/537.42.72.
Le Trappiste
This typical Belgian bar is a
must-visit. With its outdoor seating, trendy location and marvellous beer menu,
it's a brilliant establishment. Even the waiters are efficient and friendly.
Highly recommended, especially in summer when the terrace is packed. The food's
good, too, with plenty of Belgian specialities up for grabs. Don't be surprised
to find 'Madame Pi-Pi' guarding the lavatory doors with her money tray, mop and
Mr Propre cleaning fluid. So keep plenty of eurocents handy if you're busting
for a wizz...
Avenue de la Toison d'Or, tel 02/511.79.27.
Tropa
The Tropa live music bar is located in the popular St Catherine area and has been open since the end of 2006. Featuring cocktails, snacks and live bands every Friday, the bar is eclectic and popular. Karaoke fans should note that they can get up and sing every night - even after the band has finished - although the Tropa is closed on Sundays. Frontman Mardy is a real character and this bar is well worth checking out for something a little different.
21/23 rue St Catherine
tel 0495/22.09.83
Open: Mon-Thurs Noon-2am, Fri Noon- 4am, Sat 7.30pm to 4am.
www.tropadiscobar.be
L'Ultime Atome
This popular bar-resto lies deep in
the heart of Ixelles and is never quiet, ever. It is bright, cheerful and
popular at all times of the day and night. The brasserie, which serves food all
day until late, offers a broad menu and there's a large selection of drinks
available. If you don't fancy eating here, no worries - the square in St
Boniface is peppered with excellent restaurants for every taste and pocket.
L'Ultime Atome has a mixed bag of customers, all nationalities, ages and colours but the
majority are the city's bright young things. Unfeasibly sexy waitresses waft by and
serve customers in an efficient and friendly manner. It's a truly eclectic place
with an on-street terrace, that's well-worth finding - even if only for a coffee
and a skim through the papers on a Sunday morning.
14 Rue St Boniface, tel 02/511.13.67.
The WildGeese
With talk of a looming smoking ban in bars serving food, it's refreshing to know that at least one pub is way ahead of the game. The Wild Geese has had a large 'no smoking' area in action for some time now, which means lunchtime diners don't have to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous ciggie smoke. It's a popular meeting spot for nearby office workers, as well as the usual mixture of Commission officials and thirsty hacks.
Food is served from 12-3, Monday to Friday, and from 6-10 each evening. A weekend brunch is available from 12-6.
The Geese has been around for years and has established its Thursday nights as one of the best events in town. Customers drink and dance to a lively disco late into the night (usually 3am) and it is generally regarded as a great night to meet new people, young and not so young, all packed into one bumping and grinding space. Don't expect a quiet time!
Football is shown on a big screen, natch...
2-4 Avenue Livingstone. Tel: 02/230.00.69
Open from 4pm-2am Mon-Fri. From noon-2am at weekends.
www.thewildgeese.be
Get Up, Standup
By Jeremy Slater
Brussels weather can make this city a grey place to be, especially if your job isn't quite the reward expected back in the days when your study plans revolved around showings of Countdown.
So, how can you pick yourself up on a fairly grim night? (There'll be plenty of those in the coming months.)
A lot people every month head for a stand-up comedy show. And the premier event at the moment is the Stand Up World gig, held regularly on Place Eugene Plasky.
David Lemkin, a London-based barrister and former judge of the Edinburgh Festival's Perrier Awards, started the club more than three years ago. After touring the fringe festival, this gave him the idea of getting involved in comedy.
Following a trial run on London, Lemkin then thought that Brussels could be a good venue for a regular stand-up night.
"From doing that and talking to friends I found out there were expat clubs all round the world in places such as Hong Kong, Singapore and Dublin," he said. "Another talk with a friend, who works in the European Commission, made me realise there were 60,000 English speakers based in Brussels. I then thought that it isn't very far from London and I pre-booked three dates at the beginning of 2002."
Bill Bailey has appeared at Brussels' Stand Up World
The first acts included Boothby Graffoe - who was a Time Out award winner and a former runner up in the Perrier Awards - Adrian Hills and Danny Bhoy. Things quickly developed from there.
"Trying to define what a Brussels audience is, is quite difficult," said Lemkin. "They are very international and tend to gravitate to the more intelligent acts. But then I once had a juggler and flamethrower who went down very well. Basically, I've found they are open to a variety of tastes - rather like me!"
The one thing Lemkin has found is that comedians who use a lot of word play can have a more difficult time, as some 30-35% of the audience are not native speakers. "I remember Jimmy Carr had a bit of a struggle but, in general, comedians like performing here, because the crowd is pretty warm."
Other big TV acts that have appeared since include the popular Irish comedian Ed Byrne, Bill Bailey and Al Murray. Lemkin adds that Dylan Moran and British/Iranian comic Omid Djalili who has had parts in The Mummy and Gladiator have also been successful.
"Djalili moves in glamorous circles and I hope to have him back sometime soon," said Lemkin.
More info at www.standupworld.com
